How to Make a Mess :
A Totally Unauthorised Love Letter to Nigella Lawson
Nigella Lawson has undoubtedly inspired many a dinner party over the years. This is (probably) the only time she has inspired a new musical!
Music, Lyrics and Book by Emily Rose Simons, How to Make a Mess explores themes of grief, loneliness and estrangement – all in the company of an imaginary Nigella! The concept began development between Simons and Tanya Truman (producer) in 2018, and began to take shape – as many new productions have – during the depths of the Covid lockdowns. On reading the programme notes, it’s clear that what we are seeing is a combination of Simons’ and Truman’s own life experiences.
There is a clear Jewish influence. Food – and particularly the ritual of the Friday night dinner complete with roast chicken – becomes the key metaphor for how families understand each other and indeed how we understand ourselves. The book at the centre of the musical ‘How to eat’, genuinely written by Nigella in 1999 reminds its readers that ‘although it’s possible to love eating without being able to cook, I don’t believe you can ever really cook unless you love eating’. The character at the heart of the story, Anna, (Natasha Harp) journeys through the process of learning to ‘eat’, which is essentially learning to rebuild her life following the death of her estranged mother.
Harp brings a depth of emotion to the role. To begin with, we encounter someone who is fairly frivolous, quite shallow in many ways, with very little tying her down. Within minutes her world is turned upside down with ‘that’ call from the hospice suggesting she should visit her mother soon. She has to enlist the help of her equally estranged dad (no longer married to mum) to get to the hospice, since she’s too high to drive! Anna brings the range of emotion needed to take us on that journey.
Dad begins pestering Anna with phone calls, prompting her to hide her phone in a very empty fridge. Cue the appearance from a cupboard of a very camp Nigella, played by the musical’s producer, Tanya Truman. The imaginary version of the TV chef challenges and pushes Anna to confront her grief, which she denies is even there. She teaches her to cook – but mostly teaches her to eat and thereby reconnect with who she is and where she comes from.
The score takes us on a journey. There are comic songs, heart-breaking songs and those that tell us more of the story, both of Anna and also of Nigella, who herself had a difficult relationship with her mother. Equally, the set and lighting all play their part in the narration. The empty cupboards and fridge, miraculously fill with food – kudos to the creatives backstage!
The challenge with any characterisation of a well-known person, especially one that is an imaginary friend is that there is rarely a possible development for the character. We expect Nigella to be camp – Truman does that. We expect innuendo – we get that. We expect the seductive looks to camera, or in this case the audience. They’re very present. But beyond that, Nigella’s character doesn’t have far to go. In fact there are moments when Nigella’s lines don’t land and receive the laugh that I think the cast expects.
I might argue that from the moment Nigella appears in the midst of Anna’s grief, we know where the story is going to take us. Anna learns to eat, learns to cook, accepts her grief, begins to find healing and there is a heart-warming reunion with dad at the end. This leaves me feeling uncomfortable since most people would say that grief is rarely resolved and especially not in the time span of the story.
Those observations aside, this is an innovative piece, with some well written music, exploring some important themes, which many may prefer to avoid. It has all the ingredients for an enjoyable night at the theatre and so definitely worth a watch. I look forward to seeing how the piece develops.
This show was reviewed on Tuesday 9th June 2026 at Upstairs at the Gatehouse, London where it runs until the 28th June 2026. Tickets available here: Shows
Review written by Ian Worsfold
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Photo credit : Danny Kaan
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