Intimate Apparel
It sounds a bit clichéd to describe Intimate Apparel by Lynn Nottage as intimate but that is exactly how this work should be described. This is a finely tailored story, laced with charm, dreams and heartache.
It is deeply personal too. Nottage speaks in detail about how this story came about after finding a photo of her great-grandmother. Not knowing how Black seamstresses operated in the 1900s, sent Nottage down a path where little research was available about a then unknown, unseen part of society. Undaunted, Nottage reflected, re-imagined a life and in doing so honoured her great-grandmother. And so, in all aspects, this work is profoundly intimate and should be treated as such.
This is a story set in New York of 1905, pivoting around Black corset-maker, Esther (Samira Wiley). At 35, she has worked harder than anyone and lives as a tenant of Mrs Dickson (Nicola Hughes). Esther’s world is small and contained. She goes to church, makes beautiful corsets for women and goes to and from the fabric store, run by Mr Marks (Alex Waldmann). Esther is known for her work ethic and attention to detail. Like all of us, she has her dreams, imagining a beauty parlour, where women irrespective of name or skin colour can be beautiful. Above all else, she longs for romance.
When letters from across the world arrive at her door from labourer George Armstrong (Kadiff Kirwan), who works in the blistering sun, she thinks she might finally have a chance at love but there’s a catch. She cannot read. As a result, she enlists the help of Mayme (Faith Omole), a singer who has turned to prostitution, and Mrs Van Buren (Claudia Jolly) a regular client from the rich side of town. These letters come alive on the walls and floors of the stage with beautiful projections of handwriting, designed by Alex Berry and video projection by Gino Ricardo Green. This visual touch serves to make our connection with Esther even more intimate.
Double Pulitzer Prize-winning writer, Lynn Nottage and director, Lynette Linton go together like ribbon and lace. They previously worked together at The Donmar with productions of Sweat and Clyde’s. They say if you have got a good thing going, why stop? Linton seems to be able to pull apart each and every moment through the grace of Nottage’s writing, which is full of love, hope, pain — often all, just in one paragraph. Due to the current heatwave, the theatre feels exceptionally warm. Perhaps, because of this, the pacing seems to linger a beat too long in the first half but if this is to build up the world of Esther, it is totally worth it. If Act One serves to create the dream, Act Two breaks it apart.
Samira Wiley plays Esther with passion and precision. From the moment she sits down at the Singer sewing machine, we are enveloped into her world. Esther shows both a yearning for love and defiance in equal measure. She is innocent but also fiercely independent. Thanks to Wiley’s amazing performance, all we have to do is follow the thread. In one scene with Mr Marks (Alex Waldmann), when they look at a yard of exclusive, Japanese silk, the two have such electric chemistry packed with the most beautiful display of yearning that I have seen on a London stage in a long, long time. In another time, Esther and Mr Marks could have lived a happy life surrounded by the most beautiful fabrics. However, due to Mr Marks’ religious beliefs and a society that would shun them both, it is love that cannot be publicly realised. So, they wrap, touch and feel one another through this fabric. I would happily see this show again for just this scene. It is emotive, beautiful and laced with pain. Another highlight is the song, Give me A Man, sung by the female cast. They move back and forth on iron-clad, sliding ladders singing together in harmony. The charm of Jolly, the roaring vocals of Omole and the wise quirks of Hughes made me wish there were more moments like this.
Intimate Apparel is about the illusion of dreams coupled with the crushing weight of reality, be it about marrying up in society, being able to sing in Prague, owning a beauty parlour, bearing a child, loving whomever you want, or being offered equal access to the same opportunities. However, like Kirwan’s powerful performance in Act Two, dreams are never simple and words can only get you so far. If you are lucky enough to see this performance, be ready to laugh, cry and never look at a quilt the same way again.
This production as reviewed on the 28th June 2025 at the Donmar Warehouse, London where it's currently running until the 9th August 2025. Get your tickets here: INTIMATE APPAREL — BY LYNN NOTTAGE | Donmar Warehouse
Review written by Mary Condon O'Connor
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Photo credit : Helen Murray
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